Travel Gridlock Can Ruin Your Trip: Heads Up—the Pope is traveling to Paris in late September
Many factors can dampen a vacation, from cancelled flights to large crowds. I try to travel “off season,” when airline and hotel prices are lower, even if that means the weather is not quite as nice. Although, these days, hot summer temps have travelers welcoming cooler, rainy days.
Normally, late September is an ideal time to visit Paris. But this year, Pope Leo XIV is making an historic visit there, and traffic will be gridlocked throughout the city. It reminds me of my visit to Paris before the 2024 Summer Olympics when it was very difficult, if not impossible, to get around. Here are the details:
Pope Leo XIV Schedule in Paris
On Friday, September 25th, there will be a Popemobile Procession from 4 PM to 5 PM, through central Paris from Notre-Dame-des-Champs Church, near the Luxembourg Gardens, to Place Saint-Michel. This event is open to the public, so the area will be mobbed.
Also on Friday, the Pope will be leading Solemn Vespers at Notre Dame Cathedral in the heart of the city on the larger island. This is a private event for clergy, and the surrounding area will also be closed the day before as well.
On Saturday, September 26th, the Pope will celebrate an immense Open-air Mass at Place de la Concorde (and continuing along Avenue des Champs-Élysées) at 3 PM. It is free and open to the public but advance registration is strongly recommended. They are expecting half a million people.
Paris Street/Transit Closures During Pope’s Visit
Place de la Concorde will close to vehicular traffic starting September 16, with parts of the Champs-Élysées and Rue Royale blocked off ahead of time.
Secure Viewing Zones: The 1.6 miles Popemobile route will be pedestrianized and divided into security sectors. Checkpoints open at noon on Friday; you must arrive hours earlier to pass security screening. Heavy items, large bags, and glass bottles are prohibited.
Transit & Metro Closures: Multiple metro stations feeding into the Champs-Élysées, Place de la Concorde, and Île de la Cité will be closed on September 25 and 26.
Pedestrian Delays: Expect long queues at security perimeters and very slow pedestrian movement throughout central Paris. We’re talking – bring your patience, a water bottle, and a snack.
Also, huge events make it impossible to find a reasonably-priced hotel room during that time period. My advice is to research what is going on in a city long before you finalize plans. Then you can opt to travel later if you’re not going for a specific occasion. For example, my quick search of hotel prices in Paris found that room rates dropped from $400 to $300 per night a month after the Pope’s visit.
Suggested Paris Hotels
In late October, you can enjoy the newly restored Notre Dame Cathedral at your leisure without the mob scene. And consider staying at one of the hotels nearby on the charming small island a few steps away. Here are two favorites from my guide to Affordable Paris Hotels. If stairs are an issue, make sure your room has elevator access.
HOTEL DES DEUX-ILES, 3-star boutique hotel
59 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile
4th arrondissement
Phone: 01 43 26 13 35
https://www.deuxiles-paris-hotel.com/
Hotel des Deux-Iles has undergone quite a transformation since I reported on it for my first Paris guide. Then it was a basic hotel in a great location. Now, it’s a gorgeous hotel with yummy décor—nice fabrics, floral spray motifs, and lovely watercolor paintings. The cozy salon with an “honesty wine bar” is lined with bookshelves. Guests can enjoy complimentary “tea time” in the afternoon. The price is reasonable for the location and quality of the rooms.
HOTEL SAINT-LOUIS EN L’ILE, 3-star boutique hotel
75 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile
4th arrondissement
Phone: 01 46 34 04 80
https://www.saintlouisenlisle.com/en/
Fully renovated in subdued shades, marble baths, nice linens, large windows (many with views). There are a few smaller rooms, so if you want a deluxe, larger room, request that. The lovely breakfast room has stone walls and a vaulted ceiling. Later in the morning, they offer complimentary tea and coffee in the lounge. Some rooms have balconies with a table and chairs. All rooms have a minibar and courtesy tray with hot drinks and cookies.
In the Area: Famed Berthillon ice cream shop has been serving happy customers for decades. At the end of the street, near the small bridge that leads to Notre Dame, Le Flore en l’Ile, is an excellent restaurant serving classic French dishes or coffee and dessert in the afternoon. The outdoor bistro tables face the back of Notre Dame; one of the best views in the city.
Note: This is the first article in a series on travel tips and Paris hotels (including nearby landmarks and points of interest).
CAROLINE O’CONNELL is the author of AFFORDABLE PARIS HOTELS (Travel Smart Press), https://amzn.to/4dVBE5h, and other Paris guidebooks. Her debut novel, The Champagne Crush (SparkPress), is now available as an audiobook.
